The first word that comes to mind when thinking about Martine Rose's collection is urban. You can see all the trendy Shoreditch youngsters around London wearing her pieces next autumn. There were oversized sweat pants, denim jackets, leather and prominently featured towels, both as pieces of clothing as well as as accessories. Looking at the collection as a whole, it went very much against the very polished, sharp tailored trend we have seen at many labels this season.
Run as a presentation that was meant to push the limits of the traditional catwalk show, the Hospital Club served it well. Models came out, interacted and posed on furniture among the crowd and then posed on a rotating platform before walking back of the catwalk. This gave us the opportunity to really examine the clothes in more details and see several pieces together, showing the continuity of the collection.
The leather pants with zippers as well as the towel jacket and hoodie were the standout pieces of the collection. Another interesting garment was the skin-colored, see-through with a green print, which felt quite feminine. Yet, paired with workman boots and straightened hairdo's they were certainly a look that would get you noticed. However, among the colorful and very out-there bloggers in the audience, they fitted right in.
The collection was all about form and structure, which Rose explored throughout. She played with different forms for trousers and structured jackets by layering them in different fabrics. The towels on the back of a lot of her jackets exclaimed "Expect perfection" and thus posed an interesting juxtaposition to what looked anything but perfect at first glance. [youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hME-51LRf7Q]