LFW | Nian & Janucha AW 13


Nian AW 13 


Janucha AW 13 

My second to last show of the day was a two part collection from graduates Nihan Buruk and Jale Hurdogan.
First up was Nihan Buruk’s collection. As the music kicked in and the first model strutted her way down the runway it was clear that the collection was a very masculine one. All hard lines, slicked back hair and androgynous jacket and trouser combinations. Leather accents, in the form of hoods and jacket lapels married with chains and statement zips to suggest a tough, edgy aesthetic. While there was a suggestion of femininity with an initial leather dress, the collection mainly focused on tailored trousers and looser jodhpurs which hinted at an element of street wear.
The first few outfits stuck to a monochrome palate but was later shot with red and grey accents. While some of the pieces were well tailored, hooded tops and models with hands in jacket pockets made the collection seem very casual and quite urban.
A few key pieces stood out for me, a beautiful red felt coat being one of them with eyecatching pleating details down the sleeves. These pleats came across almost like scales and were somewhat reptilian which I found really interesting.
While the jackets that were showcased were well constructed and contemporary with their leather accents, it would have been nice to see a little more than trousers and jackets in this collection.
The second act belonged to Jale Hurdogan.
As it began, chunky knits and heavy felt appeared to be the main themes for the second part of this show and it seemed in stark contrast to the show immediately before.
This time we saw a more muted palette, but again of greys and reds, along with browns and tweed. The aesthetic seemed more rustic and naturalistic and  while a lot of the collection was more casual it was interspersed with dressier pieces.
This collection was definitely a very feminine one and focussed on form fitting vintage style tailoring as well as softer shapes. Full skirts and high waists were a prevalent theme and knitwear played a great role in the styling. Quite a few of the outfits were topped with oversized knitted scarves or hoods, again adding a more rustic, folksy element. Woollen beanie hats in the same muted reds and greys were paired with some of the outfits, while other models sported black lace headbands across their foreheads.
There were a couple of outfits in, still muted, but more luxurious fabrics. A well cut trouser suit in silver held its own, while we also saw a shimmering silver dress twinkling beneath a grey heavy knit wool cloak.
The final piece consisted of another long silver dress, this time with a black keyhole detail at the front which added a little more glamour to the collection.
While I enjoyed this show a lot, I feel that perhaps the designers expertise wasn’t as well showcased as it could have been but perhaps this is one to watch.

Words | Poppy Sakulku