LFW | Nova Chiu AW 13
‘Wild Edge’ the Autumn/Winter 13 collection of Nova Chiu, is the product of fashion graduates Nova Chui and Jeff Archer. Their brand focuses on combining their respective heritages of China, Canada and Europe along with a strong use of print and texture.
The first look to strike the runway was a raspberry coloured, geometric shift dress constructed of panels of felt and fur. Adorning the side panels, 3D roses suggested that this show was indeed going to be all about texture and pattern and we were definitely not about to be disappointed. Immediately following this was another simply cut shift dress though this time was a marriage of bright pink print and felt all on a backdrop of contemporary plastic.
The start of the show focussed mainly on skirts and dresses but later more trousers and print leggings under layered coats and tunics appeared. It seemed as though as the show progressed the temperature had dropped and the thin autumnal dresses gave way to winter outerwear. Thick fur coats towards the end of the show carried an almost Tibetan or Native American air with their tassels and bold embroidery. As the show progressed black began to underpin a lot of the collection. The same use of geometric squares and diamonds from before were now outlined in black and suggested a more wintery feel.
Details such as beading and tassels were a constant theme throughout the show and were picked up on in the models footwear, both in the form of patterned heels and flat felt boots. There was a strong use of animal hide (real or artificial I could not determine) and furs which were updated with flashes of neon colour underneath.
Everything seemed to be linked carefully through the patterns and textures used throughout the show and, whilst each garment was easily a stand-alone piece, the collection as a whole was very cohesive and flowed easily from one look to the next.
This designer duo obviously have a very close working relationship and have managed to create a bold and brash, yet very tasteful collection. Although very bright, and the colours and print often very clashing, you could tell that this collection had been very thoughtfully put together.
The collection was very playful and you could tell that the designers both have a natural affinity with pattern and textures. It was nice to see such a cohesive show come about from two people- particularly a male and female duo.
Photo | Mark Aitken
Words | Poppy Sakulku