NYFW | Rodarte SS14
Rodarte looked to L.A. in the 80’s for their S/S 14 collection. In what can be considered the wildest swerve off-course for the Mulleavy sisters, this season sees cholas and hair metal rockers strut their respective stuff in unison. Plaid silks, backward ballcaps, fringed leather harness belts and a whole slew of animal skins joined together to paint a portrait of a “wild girl” hailing from L.A., living life haphazard and interestingly clad. The Mulleavy sisters seem to be trying to distance themselves from their trademark dreamy conceptualism. The pair’s odd Fall/Winter 2013 collection hinted at the 80’s in a very subtle way as where this collection borders on costume. No doubt the commercial appeal is through the roof, I can see the Opening Ceremony-ers and Nasty Gals practically running each other over to get to these pieces and if the Rodarte Girls are trying to rebrand and refocus their target audience to a sea of Tumblr fan-girls (alng the ranks of Jeremy Scott and Frankie Morello) than this collection is spot-on, but if not, they should re-evaluate their choices.
This collection could be a rebellious statement centered on shock-value ala Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent Paris. I mean why else would the Mulleavy sisters, who’ve earned mainstream recognition over the past few years by dressing demure red carpet starlets, throw their entire legacy to the wind for a couple of cheap shiny bras and backward ballcaps? Whatever the case may be, hopefully the Mulleavy girls will learn that rebellion can be most compelling when it’s understated and fully conceptualized.
Words | Taj Ragland